GUNUNG MULU
NATIONAL PARK is
Sarawak's premier national park,
located deep in the rainforest; at
the last count, featured 20,000
animal species and 3500 plant
species. Quite apart from the
park's primary rainforest, which is
characterized by clear rivers and
high-altitude vegetation, there are
three dramatically eroded
mountains, including
fifty-metre-high limestone spikes
known as the Pinnacles. The park
also has the largest limestone
cave system in the world, much of
which is still being explored. The
two major hikes, to the pinnacles
on Gunung Api and to the summit
of Gunung Mulu, are daunting, but
you're rewarded with stupendous
views of the rainforest, stretching
as far as Brunei.
NATIONAL PARK is
Sarawak's premier national park,
located deep in the rainforest; at
the last count, featured 20,000
animal species and 3500 plant
species. Quite apart from the
park's primary rainforest, which is
characterized by clear rivers and
high-altitude vegetation, there are
three dramatically eroded
mountains, including
fifty-metre-high limestone spikes
known as the Pinnacles. The park
also has the largest limestone
cave system in the world, much of
which is still being explored. The
two major hikes, to the pinnacles
on Gunung Api and to the summit
of Gunung Mulu, are daunting, but
you're rewarded with stupendous
views of the rainforest, stretching
as far as Brunei.
Only four of the 25 caves so far
explored in Mulu are open to
visitors; they're known as "show
caves" and can get quite
crowded. From the headquarters,
a well-marked three-kilometre
plankway runs to the impressive
Deer Cave , whose 2km long and
174m high cave passage is
believed to be the largest in the
world. You follow the path
through the cave for an hour to
an incredible spot known as the
Garden of Eden, where a large
hole in the roof allows light to
penetrate, feeding plants, and
attracting birds, insects and leaf
monkeys. Nearby, Lang's Cave is
small, but has fine curtain
stalactites and coral-like growths
- helictites - on its curved walls.
The route to the summit of
Gunung Mulu (2376m) is a
straightforward climb, though very
steep, and any reasonably fit
person can complete it. The first
stage is from park headquarters
to Camp 3, an easy three-hour
walk on a flat trail. The first night
is at the open hut at Camp 3,
which has cooking facilities. Day
two comprises a hard, ten-hour,
uphill slog, some of it along the
southwest ridge, a series of small
hills negotiated by a narrow,
twisting path. The hut at Camp 4
is at 1800m; it can be cool here,
so bring a sleeping bag. Most
climbers set off well before dawn
for the hard ninety-minute trek to
the summit, to arrive at sunrise.
Near the top you have to haul
yourself up by ropes onto the
cold, windswept, craggy peak.
From here, the view is
exhilarating, looking down on
Gunung Api. It's just possible to
do the whole return trip from the
summit to park headquarters in
one day. This takes around
twelve hours and cuts out the last
night at Camp 4. The
red-and-white trail marks are
easy to see, so you shouldn't
lose your way.
explored in Mulu are open to
visitors; they're known as "show
caves" and can get quite
crowded. From the headquarters,
a well-marked three-kilometre
plankway runs to the impressive
Deer Cave , whose 2km long and
174m high cave passage is
believed to be the largest in the
world. You follow the path
through the cave for an hour to
an incredible spot known as the
Garden of Eden, where a large
hole in the roof allows light to
penetrate, feeding plants, and
attracting birds, insects and leaf
monkeys. Nearby, Lang's Cave is
small, but has fine curtain
stalactites and coral-like growths
- helictites - on its curved walls.
The route to the summit of
Gunung Mulu (2376m) is a
straightforward climb, though very
steep, and any reasonably fit
person can complete it. The first
stage is from park headquarters
to Camp 3, an easy three-hour
walk on a flat trail. The first night
is at the open hut at Camp 3,
which has cooking facilities. Day
two comprises a hard, ten-hour,
uphill slog, some of it along the
southwest ridge, a series of small
hills negotiated by a narrow,
twisting path. The hut at Camp 4
is at 1800m; it can be cool here,
so bring a sleeping bag. Most
climbers set off well before dawn
for the hard ninety-minute trek to
the summit, to arrive at sunrise.
Near the top you have to haul
yourself up by ropes onto the
cold, windswept, craggy peak.
From here, the view is
exhilarating, looking down on
Gunung Api. It's just possible to
do the whole return trip from the
summit to park headquarters in
one day. This takes around
twelve hours and cuts out the last
night at Camp 4. The
red-and-white trail marks are
easy to see, so you shouldn't
lose your way.
| Five million years ago, a constant splatter of raindrops dissolved Gunung Api's limestone and carved out the razor-sharp fifty-metre-high pinnacles from a solid block of rock. The 'Pinnacles' is inside Gunung Mulu National Park. Trekking to the Pinnacles is best enjoyed with a trained guide as there are many obstacles to overcome. Most climbers take a couple of days to complete the trek there and back. One of the many paths to enjoy along the way is the Headhunter's Trail. It's a beautiful spot, which, despite the number of hikers passing through, still retains a wild, elemental edge. |
| The Pinnacles - no one doubts that it is one of the wonders of the Asian world. |
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| The Hilton Kuching Is situated along Kuching's spectacular Riverfront Promenade with panoramic views of the Sarawak River and Fort Margherita Shopping Centres. Business areas and places of interest are all within walking distance. Taxis are easily available from the hotel. All 315 rooms offer breath taking views of the river or city. |
If you are planning on hiking in
the park, some of the equipment
you'll need is a large water bottle,
walking shoes, sun hat and
swimming gear, a poncho/rain
sheet, torch, mosquito repellent,
salt solution, ointment for bites, a
basic first aid kit and a thin mat.
Wear shorts and T-shirts on the
trails (it'll be easier to spot
leeches), and bring long trousers
and long-sleeved shirts for the
dusk insect assault at the
Pinnacles, Mulu and
Headhunter's Trail.
the park, some of the equipment
you'll need is a large water bottle,
walking shoes, sun hat and
swimming gear, a poncho/rain
sheet, torch, mosquito repellent,
salt solution, ointment for bites, a
basic first aid kit and a thin mat.
Wear shorts and T-shirts on the
trails (it'll be easier to spot
leeches), and bring long trousers
and long-sleeved shirts for the
dusk insect assault at the
Pinnacles, Mulu and
Headhunter's Trail.
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Once back at the camp, most people
rest, swim, eat and sleep, preferring to
start the return trip to park headquarters
the following day. There are some other
interesting walks from here, however. A
path from the camp follows the river
further upstream and ends at a beautiful
spot below the Melinau Gorge (2hr
return), where a vertical wall of rock rises
100m above the vanishing river. A much
longer option from Camp 5 is to follow
the so-called Headhunter's Trail, a route
once traced by Kayan war parties. Cross
the bridge, turn left and walk along a
wide trail passing a large rock (around
4km). From here a clearly marked flat
trail to Kuala Terikan , a small Berawan
settlement on the banks of Sungei
Terikan, takes four hours (11km). You
can stay at basic hut accommodation.
From here the trail continues for two
hours to Sungei Medalam, where you
can take a longboat to the Iban
longhouse at Bala. It's best to stay here
and then continue next day down Sungei
Medalam in a longboat into Sungei
Limbang and on up to Limbang Town, an
all-day trip. This is a good way of getting
to Brunei from Mulu, as boats run
frequently from Limbang to Bandar.
A guide is recommended for trekking in
the park.
rest, swim, eat and sleep, preferring to
start the return trip to park headquarters
the following day. There are some other
interesting walks from here, however. A
path from the camp follows the river
further upstream and ends at a beautiful
spot below the Melinau Gorge (2hr
return), where a vertical wall of rock rises
100m above the vanishing river. A much
longer option from Camp 5 is to follow
the so-called Headhunter's Trail, a route
once traced by Kayan war parties. Cross
the bridge, turn left and walk along a
wide trail passing a large rock (around
4km). From here a clearly marked flat
trail to Kuala Terikan , a small Berawan
settlement on the banks of Sungei
Terikan, takes four hours (11km). You
can stay at basic hut accommodation.
From here the trail continues for two
hours to Sungei Medalam, where you
can take a longboat to the Iban
longhouse at Bala. It's best to stay here
and then continue next day down Sungei
Medalam in a longboat into Sungei
Limbang and on up to Limbang Town, an
all-day trip. This is a good way of getting
to Brunei from Mulu, as boats run
frequently from Limbang to Bandar.
A guide is recommended for trekking in
the park.
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